Anyone who knows us, has heard the statement, "We’re going to Panama when we retire." Well it’s taken two and a half years but we finally made it.
Sometime last summer we started discussing a trip with our friends Elsie and Walt to spend a month in Panama. Through the magic of the Internet, we were able to make the plan a reality, weekly phone conversations that seemed to go nowhere suddenly crystalized into a one month reservation at an unknown resort called Rio Mar. The pictures on Airbnb looked wonderful, but we all know pictures can be deceptive. Fortunately the pictures didn’t lie, everything about Rio Mar was wonderful. The three bedroom, 4 bathroom apartment with a maid's quarters of all things, was perfect. Although we had no maid, we felt pampered having a maid's quarters which we used as a junk room.
Sometime last summer we started discussing a trip with our friends Elsie and Walt to spend a month in Panama. Through the magic of the Internet, we were able to make the plan a reality, weekly phone conversations that seemed to go nowhere suddenly crystalized into a one month reservation at an unknown resort called Rio Mar. The pictures on Airbnb looked wonderful, but we all know pictures can be deceptive. Fortunately the pictures didn’t lie, everything about Rio Mar was wonderful. The three bedroom, 4 bathroom apartment with a maid's quarters of all things, was perfect. Although we had no maid, we felt pampered having a maid's quarters which we used as a junk room.
The resort has four pools, two salt water and two fresh. A short walk to the Pacific Ocean beach, a nearly constant breeze, no bugs or stray dogs, security, a restaurant, many kindly Canadians and just a wonderful relaxing vibe that lured us into a schedule of walks, pools, beach, cocktail hour and dinner. We barely wanted to go on day trips, but we did manage a few.
There’s a town about a half hour away called El Valle which is on the rim of a dead volcano. The temperature was at least 10 degrees cooler and they had this thing called rain there. Although it was more like being misted at the produce aisle at Stop and Shop, actually quite pleasant. There was the jungle walk over rope bridges that I so love ( sarcasm there in case you didn’t catch it) and a market selling fresh stuff and native wares. Specifically jewelry and mola, textiles which originate from the Kuna indigenous people. Mola is some fancy decretive needlework that is quite cool. I bought a bag with a big frog on it -which looks better than it sounds!
Other "day trips" included catching the local fishermen in the morning and bargaining for whatever looked interesting, which Svend would cook and for which Walt would have concocted some wonderful Panamanian cocktail. Elsie and I deserve all good things that happen to us! We actually made an overnight to trip o the small but popular town of Pedasi about 4 hours drive from Rio Mar. Svend and I had been there 6 years ago during our first trip to Panama. There's a small island off the coast, Iguana Island, where the snorkeling wasn't as good, the iguanas were not as plentiful, the crabs were smaller and the restaurant was not as fun as six years ago. Isn't that always the way? But we did manage to have a good time.
On the way back we stopped at a low key yet interesting active archeological site with burial mounds dating for 700 -1000 AD. Apparently this was still a time when slaves and children were tossed in with the chief when he was buried. There was also a row of monoliths on the site. Ancient people around the world did love their monoliths!
The month flew by and we enjoyed the visits of The Delevich's daughter Carolyn and her two friends, Lilu and Maria, Panamanian women who gave us some insight into the life of people who are actually native Panamanians as opposed to the lovely Canadians and US expats who where the bulk of people we encountered.
We also had a visit from friends, Jim and Eve, who currently live in South Carolina. Their four day visit was too short! They fit right into our sloth like schedule. Although the men did go on a memorable deep sea fishing excursion where both engines failed and we might have lost them forever. But we didn't and they came home with a decent Mahimahi which we very much enjoyed for dinner. All good!
Eventually the Deleviches had to go and we had to move out of the lovely Rio Mar. We're sure to be back there or somewhere near in the future.
Svend and I had another couple of weeks to explore Panama so we set off down the Panamanian highway after saying a reluctant good by to Elsie, Walt and various Canadians.
Our first real stop (after an overnight in the unloveable town of Santiago) was the beach town of Las Layas. We had booked a few nights at Casa Laguna which was down one of the worst dirt roads one could imagine. Fortunately, the slightly battered Subaru we rented for this part of the journey was able to handle this road. becoming slightly more battered.
At our B&B in Las Lajas, we encountered an extraordinary
Dog named Peter Fist let it be know that dogs rule in Panama. It seems everyone has one or two, and the street dogs are everywhere. As soon as one decides to bark, the whole neighborhood joins in. Kind of like the twilight bark from Lady and the Tramp, but not as noble. Fortunately they loose interest quickly. Peter was one of a pack that lived next door to Casa Leguna, but when the owners’ dog died, Peter moved in to comfort them. He used to just visit, but felt Maria and Mikel needed him when their dog passed on. Peter is the stillest creature, it’s relaxing to be near him. But Maria says he goes everywhere with them, including surfing. That I need to see.
It’s a very magical combination - the jungle, the ocean and darkness. Oh and don’t leave out the stars, the insects and the frogs
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| Las Lajas Beach |
Being on a beach is one of life’s gifts. It may look like nothing in particular is happening, but even on the remotest beach there is non stop action if you observe closely. Take the sand crab for example. What a strange existence that creature has. First of all it’s a crab so it walks sideways, - already weird but interesting. But the sand crab basically lives under the sand and makes a small mound with a hole on top. It peeps out that hole and when the coast is seemingly clear, he pops out and runs sideways with a load of sand that gets deposited in tiny hills around the home mound..
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| Evidence of sand crabs |
Now when I say peaceful I leave out the action in the perfect German/Panamanian garden. There’s an interesting mixed-family here that was so fun to watch. It consisted of a hen, three chicks and a duck. Yes a duck. And not a boring duck either. She has decided to take over the raising of the chicks because obviously the hen is a negligent mother. So wherever the chicks are -she’s right there. In fact we actually saw the duck give the hen a jab on the back of the neck when she got too close. She’s a bit of a helicopter parent. But the chicks are thriving under her watchful care.
In Boquette we took several challenging walks, one to a hot spring and another to a waterfall. Both were worth it in the end, but suffice it to say there was a bit of complaining along the way. You know how Svend is.:) The province of Bocas el Toro is made up of many islands. Some busier than others. The word on the Panamanian street is that Bocas town is a sanctuary of surfers and young people wanting to party. We have nothing in particular against those people, but opted for a quieter retreat on the Island of San Cristóbal at a place called Nathany Lodge.
The journey from Boquete to Bocas is fraught with mountains and twisty road of various types of surfaces, even pavement sometimes. And being the only road, large trucks are plentiful. Ah yes, driving down a steep incline, passing large trucks...so much fun.
We finally got to the confusing town of Almarante after about five hours of this tranquil ride and found the gas station where we would leave our car and get picked up by a launch from Nathany Lodge. David, who runs Nathany Lodge with his wife Celeste, said it would be about a 10 minute ride. One thing I’ve discovered in my long life is that people lie. Kids lie, adults lie, I’m sure even nuns lie on occasion. And of course David lies, it was at least 30 minutes in an open boat and of course “ it’s not usually this rough” lied sweet and adorable David. Now did we make it, yes and the place is stunning. As we approached the dock, I couldn’t help but notice the rustic hut we were going to be staying in were very high up the hill, naturally! However there was an arctic cat to get us up. One problem, there were only 2 seats so the wife had to sit on the husbands lap. Now you’re wondering, is Svend still alive? Never mind Svend. What about me? It was scary going up the steep twisty dirt road!
We soon discover that as beautiful as it is on San Cristóbal, there are no roads where we are, which makes for blissful peace. But limits the outings one might like to take. Remembering that the sloth was our trip mascot, we just settled in and found the limited choices to be liberating. What we did get to do was all wonderful with a healthy dose of reading, resting and actually catching up with the blog. Our activities included snorkeling, which if sloths had snorkeling gear they would absolutely adore. There is a beautiful coral reef here that is actually alive and when you stop saying "where are the fish that look like Dory", you realize the fascination of the coral reef itself. Why are there so many different colors and shapes? We did see a massive amount of small green minnows, a few other unknown fish, lots of sea urchins and a manta ray. I have a huge grudge against manta rays since that wonderful man Steve Irwin was viciously shot in the heart by one.
After four days at this lovely retreat we trudged back over the mountains to pick up the PanAmerican highway to return to Panama City for the trip home. Of course we ended up overnighting in the town we vowed never to return to, Santiago to stay at another questionable hotel. But after a hot meal for two for $7.00 and a decent night sleep we continued on to the Airport hotel, which was surprisingly nice for our last night (this year) in Panama. We plan to return next year for triumphant conclusion of Svend's dental work!
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