Cape Horn and Beyond!

 To be honest, previously I wouldn’t be able to delineate between the Straits of a Magellan and the Beagle Channel. I sort of knew they were not Cape Horn, but that was about it. Any Jeopardy watcher or trivia buff would know that the Beagle was the name of the ship that Charles Darwin tooled around South America to come up with that hair-brained ideas of evolution. and that Magellan was the first European to reach the Pacific Ocean and circumnavigate the globe. Ah but did he really? Technically he never made the circumnavigation since he died  in The Philippines  from a poison arrow. Not  before mutinies, desertions and other early explorers’ shenanigans.  However one of his ships finally made it to a Spanish port by heading  west and arriving from the east.

Ok I know this is a travel blog not a 500 year ago history tale, I do get carried away.

Back to the Glacier Alley. - After a day or so of cruising through the Straights of Magellan, that archipelago of tons of small islands and scenic fjords on the western coast of southern South America, we entered The Beagle channel. That   cuts through the lower portion of the continent, which once discovered made for a less wild and wooly experience of trying to get you ship around Cape Horn. Of course once the Panama Canal came along, 90 per cent of ships went there. Cutting to the chase we ent by 6 glaciers in about an hour and a half? Amazing!!!! The most spectacular had a waterfall flowing from the top..

The hardest part was deciding where on the ship to to view all this majesty! There’s then Crows Nest Cafe top floor forward, or the pointy end as I like to call it irritate my mariner husband. Windows all around give that space a special advantage to we lookouts. 

I really like the promenade deck on the third deck because it’s outside, but coveredl (three times around equals a mile.) Naturally there were the prerequisite runners who have to do their daily let’s-make-everyone-else-feel-guilty routine. Don’t they know you’re supposed to gain at least 10 lbs on a cruise? 

Going around the Horn was probably my personal favorite. Up and dressed at 6 AM with my winter jacket, scarf and wool hat, ready for whatever the summer day in southern South America ad in store for me. I wanted the outdoor experience, not the windowed room view for babies. There was a smallish deck at the bow and the best way to describe that was WINDY!  It’s kind of a fun experience when the wind can push a sturdy person as myself around but as fun as it was, I didn’t last long at that delightful spot. So the promenade beck with its possibility of shelter from the wind was the place for me. Svend who is not as impressed by windy, rolling seas as I am, finally made an appearance, hot a photo op and then went to see if the breakfast was ready. 

At one point a woman said, “look, there’s whales.” And although I pretended to see them, I do believe they were sea form. But who cares, whales they were.

So what’s it like at Cape Horn.? Well according to the daily newsletter on the Oosterdam…

“It may be the most notorious ocean passage in the world, and for centuries it evoked dread in the hearts of sailors. But those who survived a trip around Cape Horn, where the Atlantic and Pacific slosh violently into each other, had bragging rights for life. Along this passage, the Tierra del Fuego, or "land of fire," where Chile and Argentina converge at the bottom of the world, got its name from early sailors who saw the fires of the people who lived here burning on shore. For some 8,000 years, until as recently as the end of the 19th century, this was the home of the Yaghan and other indigenous groups.

Magellan and Drake left their mark and names here, as did Darwin, who sailed through here on the HMS Beagle. The great clipper ships of '49er lore later fought their way through fierce waves carrying gold between California and the East Coast in that era before the Panama Canal. Just as Richard Henry Dana, Jr., described in his masterful Two Years Before the Mast, published in 1840, a journey today around the Cape at the very bottom of the Tierra is shaped by capricious weather, as powerful winds and shallow waters can produce waves that reach as high as 30 meters (100 feet).”

I’m going to be honest, the waves were not 100 feet high. Although it was the most motion we had encountered thus far, it was not at all scary. It was simply wonderful. Not another  ship to be seen, one building on the Cape itself, proudly flying the Chilean flag (in case you confuse it with Argentina which is very close) and no others. Magical! The captain spun the boat around 360 degrees, which was amazing. We must have been there for a couple hours until we reluctantly started out on our journey to the Falkland Islands.

Little did we know two months ago when we planned out eight hour all day tour of Buenos Aries it would be on the exact day the city would be celebrating the incredible, first time in forty years World Cup Argentinian win. What could have been a nightmare turned out to be great fun. The enthusiasm was infectious.

The whole World Cup thing really became a fun addition to the trip, Holland- America did not pay to have the games shown onboard so interested people had to find places to watch on shore. Svend and I have never really had a problem with finding eating and/or drinking establishments throughout the world.

The Land of Fire

 

Our thirty day cruise was actually two fifteen day cruises. In Santiago, our new best friends, Kevin and Edgar left the ship along with seven or eight hundred other babies that didn’t dare to go around the Horn. OK. maybe they had other things to do. And happily Kevin and Edgar are going to buy property in Fort Myers so we’ll find them again. The other 800, probably not.

Anyway we were under the impression that the ship would be much emptier and we’d get good seats at the windows all the time. Unbeknownst to us, when we were on a wine tour of the coastal valley,about a thousand people got on in Santiago and we have to bob and weave to get to get a seat at all. Interlopers!

As out journey progresses southward, there’s light in the sky until nearly 10pm and there’s an excitement in the air because we all know as that great as the trip has been so far, The best is yet to come. The ice fjords of Chile. The Beagle  channel, going around the Horn, Penguins in the Falkland Island. tango in Buenos Ares! Come on!
If it’s Tuesday, it must be Terre del Fuego! Wow! I’ve always wanted to say that. Well of course that’s ridiculous, who would ever actually want to say exactly that? But as great luck would have it it is Tuesday and I’ve finally  gotten to Terre del Fuego, which actual real people have heard me say that was something I wanted to do. Poetic license.

On our way to the land of fire we went ashore in a couple of Chilean ports after Santiago, Punta Arenas in Patagonia being the largest  about  160,000 souls.

it’s a jumping off town for the environmental tourism of the area. For example the five day trek through the mountains that Amelia and Rico did for their honeymoon. We actually got a burger from a restaurant recommended by those lovebirds. (and it was good!) 

We visited the mansion of a prominent wealthy family the Braun/Menendez  who amassed great fortune from their Portuguese/Russian roots. To see the opulent house in a small town at the bottom of the world makes one realize how little we known about other cultures. The rooms were gorgeously furnished. The paintings, by an artist whose name I can’t remember are reminiscent of John Singer Sargeant. In this town is also one of the

most poignant cemeteries I have ever visited, a great juxtaposition of the wealthy mausoleums and very humble graves with loving memorials to abuelos and other family members.members.

Next port o’ all was Ushuaia (Ooo-shoe -why-aaa) The southern most city in the world, our fist stop in Argentina and part of the legendary Tierra del Fuego! It’s a scenic town on the Beagle Channel and surrounded by the end of the Andes and their drinking water comes for a glacier. 

It happened to be the day that Argentina was in the finals for the World Cup. We were on a shore excursion that included an old fashioned train ride to the “end of the word” (don’t worry we didn’t fall off.) While at a stop to look at a waterfall, oh yes and to buy some canned photos that they took of everyone while boarding the train, but I digress.  Suddenly the conductor jumps out onto the platform and is yelling excitedly. Now I’m a world traveler, I’ve been to Wild West City in Andover New Jersey, I figured out right away that there were train robbers on board. But no, no gunslinger was necessary to save us. Argentina had scored a goal. Or as they say in South America, a gooooooooooooooal!!! We overaged Americans tried to look  appropriately excited, but really we we’re hoping they would get the train rolling again.

But I’m joking, it was fun to see the enthusiasm. Now the final, Argentina vs. France will be only two days we’re scheduled to fly home. Apparently the entire country will go into celebration mode if and when they win. So we’ll see if the planes are departing or not. I’m sure it’s nice in Buenos Aires at Christmas.

We’ll be in across the river in Montevideo   

Got to stop blogging, it’s cutting into my hot tub time. (forgive tense inconsistencies or any other grammatical quirks- blame the Southern Hemisphere.)

Next installment - the really fun stuff!

Finally! South America

The Big Cruise 2022

 Nearly everyone in the world knows that Svend surprised me with a 30 day cruise around South America for the 31st anniversary of my 39th birthday! I was hoping for some new slippers, but oh well. Anyway after a slightly harrowing prelude we are sitting on the deck of the Oosterdam, one of Holland America’s “small” ships with 1800 passengers .

A little over a week ago, we left the Dorchester domain and headed toward sunny Florida. Still in Massachusetts, we blew out a tire in the 5th wheel which caused a 2 hour delay and mucho dineros of course, but fortunately no harm done. A few hours later we made the incredible rookie mistake of paying attention to the Google map witch who convinced us to cross the Hudson over the George Washington Bridge. Now if we hadn’t lived in New Jersey for 20 years we could possibly forgiven for being so stupid, but no. Our punishment was another couple of hours of delay laced with sudden downpours just to add to the fun.

We did manage to have a lovely mishap free visit with the South Carolina relatives on the journey, after which we busted a back window of the truck by backing up the camper at a sharp angle (which is not supposed to happen but it did.)

My personal favorite disaster happen a couple of days later when I tripped on a brick path and fell on my face, rattled my brains and worse, scratched my glasses just days before the great embarkation! There was no way my double stigmatization prescription could be replaced. Oh well, shockingly I had thought to bring an older pair of glasses, not quite the right prescription and only slightly scratched. Happy ending,

Actually a few good things happened that week. We made it to the cozy neighborhood of Kerrville Circle where a lot of downright good people happen to live. Of course my bother and sister-in-law are among them as well as the generous JIm and Deb who hosted the neighborhood Friendsgiving. We were very thankful by that point. Jim and Deb are  also hosting the Taj McHaul (aka the camper) until our return which we appreciate very much.

OK spoiler alert, we made it to the ship without any further misadventures. Our good friends Elsie and Walt drove us over Alligator Alley to Miami in plenty of time to set sail. No luggage fell into the briny, we didn’t have Covid, the engine didn’t fail. Boy we we relieved to see the lines cast off so we could relax,

Six days later and we now are cruising through the Panama Canal, a true modern wonder. This is my second trip and Svend’s hundredth maybe? We’ve spent three days at sea and one day in Aruba in which I finally have swam in the Caribbean Sea. Seems strange that I’ve never been to the Caribbean, it was a beautiful beach!

All of you cruisers certainly must know that a day at sea does not mean a day of rest. We’ve been to lectures and shows, pools saunas and hot tubs of course, trying to exercise and walk, trying not to eat and drink too much with varying levels of success. I now know everything about The Spanish Galleons, The influence of the Dutch in the new world and the Panama Canal. I will be happy to bore you will all the details when we meet. In addition to the lectures we have seen a comedy show, an excellent string quartet, A four part harmonizing group (one of my soft spots) and an 80’s tribute band. One barely has time to lounge around, but we do manage to squeeze it in.

We’re zoning in on future lifelong friendships, as you all know Svend can chat with anyone in various languages. Naturally we have met the prerequisite Danes and Swedes that one meets wherever in the world one travels (Great Wall of China for example) anyway one particular couple are not just Danes but they live in the next town from Egon and Farfar and we have mutual acquaintances. Of course! And another couple from Florida who seem very promising.

OK week one - my adoring fans have asked for a blog and here it is. Hopefully I won’t emulate my favorite animal the sloth ( who no doubt are lazing around the very trees I’m gazing at right now as we glide through Lake Gatun on the way to the next set of locks…

Panama 2020

Anyone who knows us, has heard the statement, "We’re going to Panama when we retire." Well it’s taken two and a half years but we finally made it. 
Sometime last summer we started discussing a trip with our friends Elsie and Walt to spend a month in Panama. Through the magic of the  Internet, we were able to make the plan a reality, weekly phone conversations that seemed to  go nowhere suddenly crystalized into a one month reservation at an unknown resort called Rio Mar. The pictures on Airbnb looked wonderful, but we all know pictures can be deceptive. Fortunately the pictures didn’t lie, everything about Rio Mar was wonderful. The three bedroom, 4  bathroom apartment with a maid's quarters of all things, was perfect. Although we had no maid, we felt pampered having a maid's quarters which we used as a junk room.

The resort has four  pools, two salt water and two fresh. A short walk to the Pacific Ocean beach, a nearly constant breeze, no bugs or stray dogs, security, a restaurant, many kindly Canadians and just a wonderful relaxing vibe that lured us into a schedule of walks, pools, beach, cocktail hour and dinner. We barely wanted to go on day trips, but we did manage a few. 

There’s a town about a half hour away called El Valle which is on the rim of a dead volcano. The temperature was at least 10 degrees cooler and they had this thing called rain there. Although it was more like being misted at the produce aisle at Stop and Shop, actually quite pleasant. There was the jungle walk over rope bridges that I so love ( sarcasm there in case you didn’t catch it) and a market selling fresh stuff and native wares. Specifically jewelry and mola, textiles which originate from the Kuna indigenous people. Mola is some fancy decretive needlework that is quite cool. I bought a bag with a big frog on it -which looks better than it sounds!

Other "day trips" included catching the local fishermen in the morning and bargaining for whatever looked interesting, which Svend would cook and for which Walt would have concocted some wonderful Panamanian cocktail. Elsie and I deserve all good things that happen to us! 

We actually made an overnight to trip o the small but popular town of Pedasi about 4 hours drive from Rio Mar. Svend and I had been there 6 years ago during our first trip to Panama. There's a small island off the coast, Iguana Island, where the snorkeling wasn't as good, the iguanas were not as plentiful, the crabs were smaller and the restaurant was not as fun as six years ago. Isn't that always the way? But we did manage to have a good time. On the way back we stopped at a low key yet interesting active archeological site with burial mounds dating for 700 -1000 AD. Apparently this was still a time when slaves and children were tossed in with the chief when he was buried. There was also a row of monoliths on the site. Ancient people around the world did love their monoliths!

We managed some restaurant trips, dental appointments for Svend and a trip tp the peninsula of Punta Charme, which has an expansive beach and a wind surfing school where one could enjoy a cold beer and watch the crazy wind surfers. I'm highly jealous of wind surfers and have vowed to take up that sport in my next life - at a younger age.

The month flew by and we enjoyed the visits of The Delevich's daughter Carolyn and her two friends, Lilu and Maria, Panamanian women who gave us some insight into the life of people who are actually native Panamanians as opposed to the lovely Canadians and US expats who where the bulk of people we encountered.
We also had a visit from friends, Jim and Eve, who currently live in South Carolina. Their four day visit was too short! They fit right into our sloth like schedule. Although  the men did go on a memorable deep sea fishing excursion where both engines failed and we might have lost them forever. But we didn't and they came home with a decent Mahimahi which we very much enjoyed for dinner. All good!
Eventually the Deleviches had to go and we had to move out of the lovely Rio Mar. We're sure to be back there or somewhere near in the future. 

Svend and I had another couple of weeks to explore Panama so we set off down the Panamanian highway after saying a reluctant good by to Elsie, Walt and various Canadians. 

Our first real stop (after an overnight in the unloveable town of Santiago) was the beach town of  Las Layas. We had booked a few nights at Casa Laguna which was down one of the worst dirt roads one could imagine. Fortunately, the slightly battered Subaru  we rented for this part of the journey was able to handle this road. becoming slightly more battered.
At our B&B in Las Lajas, we encountered an extraordinary
Dog named Peter Fist let it be know that dogs rule in Panama. It seems everyone has one or two, and the street dogs are everywhere. As soon as one decides to bark, the whole neighborhood joins in. Kind of like the twilight bark from Lady and the Tramp, but not as noble. Fortunately they loose interest quickly. Peter was one of a pack that lived next door to Casa Leguna, but when the owners’ dog died, Peter moved in to comfort them. He used to just visit, but felt Maria and Mikel needed him when their dog passed on. Peter is the stillest creature, it’s relaxing to be near him. But Maria says he goes everywhere with them, including surfing. That I need to see. 

It’s a very magical combination - the jungle, the ocean and darkness. Oh and don’t leave out the stars, the insects and the frogs

Las Lajas Beach

Being on a beach is one of life’s gifts. It may look like nothing in particular is happening, but even on the remotest beach there is non stop action if you observe closely. Take the sand crab for example. What a strange existence that creature has. First of all it’s a crab so it walks sideways, - already weird but interesting. But the sand crab basically lives under the sand and makes a small mound with a hole on top. It peeps out that hole and when the coast is seemingly clear, he pops out and runs sideways with a load of sand that gets deposited in tiny hills around the home mound..

Evidence of sand crabs

 This home mound will be washed away by the incoming tide in the not so distance future. What’s the point? I’m sure Mr Google could explain it all thoroughly but I’d rather just wonder.

After 39 days, we fianlly left the coast of Panama and headed into the mountains to a great town called Boquete. Much as we adore the ocean, to put on socks was such a treat. We are Northerners after all. Bookings.com  brought us to a lovely peaceful place about a 15 minute walk from the center, impeccably clean and orderly by a German man and his Panamanian wife.
Now when I say peaceful I leave out the action in the perfect German/Panamanian garden. There’s an interesting mixed-family here that was so fun to watch. It consisted of a hen, three chicks and a duck. Yes a duck. And not a boring duck either. She has decided to take over the raising of the chicks because obviously the hen is a negligent mother. So wherever the chicks are -she’s right there. In fact we actually saw the duck give the hen a jab on the back of the neck when she got too close. She’s a bit of a helicopter parent. But the chicks are thriving under her watchful care. 
In Boquette we took several challenging walks, one to a hot spring and another to a waterfall. Both were worth it in the end, but suffice it to say there was a bit of complaining along the way. You know how Svend is.:) 

Boces el Toro

The province of Bocas el Toro is  made up of many islands. Some busier than others. The word on the Panamanian street is that Bocas town is a sanctuary of surfers and young people wanting to party. We have nothing in particular against those people, but opted for a quieter retreat on the Island of San Cristóbal at a place called Nathany Lodge.
The journey from Boquete to Bocas is fraught with mountains and twisty road of various types of surfaces, even pavement sometimes. And being the only road, large trucks are plentiful. Ah yes, driving down a steep incline, passing large trucks...so much fun.
We finally got to the confusing town of Almarante after about  five hours of this tranquil ride and found the gas station where we would leave our car and get picked up by a launch from Nathany  Lodge. David, who runs Nathany Lodge with his wife Celeste, said it would be about a 10 minute ride. One thing I’ve discovered in my long life is that people lie. Kids lie, adults lie, I’m sure even nuns lie on occasion. And of course David lies, it was at least 30 minutes in an open boat and of course “ it’s not usually this rough” lied sweet and adorable David. Now did we make it, yes and the place is stunning. As we approached the dock, I couldn’t help but notice the rustic hut we were going to be staying in were very high up the hill, naturally! However there was an arctic cat to get us up. One problem, there were only 2 seats so the wife had to sit on the husbands lap. Now you’re wondering, is Svend still alive? Never mind Svend. What about me? It was scary going up the steep twisty dirt road!
We soon discover that as beautiful as it is on San Cristóbal, there are no roads where we are, which makes for blissful peace. But limits the outings one might like to take. Remembering that the sloth was our trip mascot, we just settled in and found the limited choices to be liberating. What we did get to do was all wonderful with a healthy dose of reading, resting and actually catching up with the blog. Our activities included snorkeling, which if sloths had snorkeling gear they would absolutely adore. There is a beautiful coral reef here that is actually alive and when you stop saying "where are the fish that look like Dory", you realize the fascination of the coral reef itself. Why are there so many different colors and shapes? We did see a massive amount of small green minnows, a few other unknown fish, lots of sea urchins and a manta ray. I have a huge grudge against manta rays since that wonderful man Steve Irwin was viciously shot in the heart by one.

After four days at this lovely retreat we trudged back over the mountains to pick up the PanAmerican highway to return to Panama City for the trip home. Of course we ended up overnighting in the town we vowed never to return to, Santiago to stay at another questionable hotel. But after a hot meal for two for $7.00 and a decent night sleep we continued on to the Airport hotel, which was surprisingly nice for our last night (this year) in Panama. We plan to return next year for triumphant conclusion of Svend's dental work!

Sweden 2019

     I like to think of my father in law, Villy, as a modern day Francis of Assisi. He’s very kind to the critters in his domain. There’s a tailless magpie that he makes sure has food, he strategically places the bird bath under a tree so the smaller birds will be protected from predators, he shoos bees and other flying insects out of the house without swatting them. He is obviously a sainted fellow. Unless of course you happen to be a snail. In that case you will find yourself cast into a pail of salt water in which you will slowly die. So much for “all God’s creatures”

Snail Hunters

It’s been quite a few years since we’ve been in Sweden at Midsommar. It’s so incredibly beautiful! Hans, Hanne, Villy, Svend and I decided to go to a real Midsommar fest in the afternoon and then go home to eat mass quantities of picked herring and other assorted midsommar goodies like shrimp, smoked salmon and more picked herring. Oh and of course some decent aquavit. Midsommar is like Christmas in Sweden. The big important celebration is on the "Eve" So imagine our surprise when we got to the field that advertised the big midsommar fest to find it looked like a ghost town and the fest was scheduled for midsommar dag (day) Now that's just ridiculous. I refuse to blame my imperfect Swedish. Having a midsommar fest on midsommar day is like having a New year's eve party on New Year's Day. The day after is recuperation time, not festival time. What is happening to Sweden?
Anyway we went home, dragged the table out under the tree and had our mass quantities of food and drink.

We were visiting Sweden before and after our big Italy trip with the Danes. The timing was perfect. In addition to Midsommar, we were there for little Leonora's 2nd birthday. I guess she would be Svend's  great great niece. Or is it great grand niece? Whatever it is she's cute and sweet. 


So we are all going to Italy to stay in a villa and 90 year old Villy is going down to a farmhouse Denmark to look after Egon and Anna's dog. And the cows I guess, seems fair.